I tried several combinations of stitches and this is the easiest pattern I could come up with that still has texture and interest.
I also wanted it to be circular, with no zig zags or ruffles.
It’s very easy to follow and works up pretty quickly.
You can add buttons to the edge if you like. The stitches are loose enough to act as button holes.
Most tree skirts are anywhere from 36” across to 50” across. Mine is 49” across, and is just what I wanted.
I used:
Red Heart Soft (any 4 weight yarn would work.) 256 yards (234 m) each skein
5.5mm crochet hook (5mm or 6mm would work fine.)
If you follow my pattern:
Color A: Dark Leaf Green (or Guacamole if you prefer a lighter green) 2 1/2 skeins
Color B: White 1 1/2 skeins
Color C: Wine (or Really Red if you prefer a brighter red) 4 skeins
The yarn comes in a 3 pack. I believe if you were to use 8 rows of the green and red instead of 10, you would only need 2 skeins of the green and 3 of the red, especially if you increased the white rows to 4. I haven’t tried this, but let me know if you came up with a pattern that takes less yarn to keep each color under 3 skeins.
Stitches:
Ch=chain
Sc=single crochet
Stacked sc: make a sc, then put the hook into the left loop that sc, pull the yarn through, and make another sc. It imitates a dc without leaving gaps or pulling.
Dc=double crochet
Fpdc=front post double crochet
Bpdc=back post double crochet
With Color A:
Ch 50
Row 1
2 dc in the 3rd chain from the hook (I prefer to use the back bump of the chain, but you can use the front of the chain if you prefer)
*1 dc in the next stitch
2 dc in the next stitch* (every 2nd stitch gets 2 dc)
Continue from * to * around
End the row with 2 dc in the last stitch.
turn (74 stitches)
Row 2
Stacked sc in the first stitch
Fpdc in the next dc from the previous row.
Bpdc in the next dc from the previous row
Alternate fpdc and bpdc across.
(The last post stitch will be a bpdc on each or the fpdc bpdc rows)
End with 1 regular dc in the last stitch (74 stitches)
turn
Row 3
Stacked sc in the first stitch.
1 dc
2 dc in the 3rd stitch
*2 dc
2 dc in the 3rd stitch.*
Repeat from * to * across
2 Dc in the last stitch
turn (98 stitches)
Row 4
Stacked sc in the first stitch
*Alternate fpdc and bpdc,*
Repeat from * to * around
End with a dc in the last stitch (98 stitches)
Row 5
Stacked sc in the first stitch.
Dc in the next 3 stitches
2 dc in the 4th stitch
*3 dc
2 dc in the 4th stitch*
Repeat from * to * across (122 stitches)
turn
Row 6
Stacked sc in the first stitch
Fpdc in the next
Bpdc in the next
Keep alternating fp and bpdc across
turn (122 stitches)
Row 7
Stacked sc in the first stitch,
Dc in the next 4 stitches
2 dc in the 5th stitch
*4 dc
2 dc in the 5th stitch*
Repeat from * to * across
2 dc in the last stitch
turn (146 stitches)
Row 8
Stacked sc in the first stitch
Alternate fpdc and bpdc across
End with 2 dc in the last stitch
turn (146 stitches)
Row 9
Stacked sc in the first stitch.
4 dc
2 dc in the 6th stitch
*5 dc
2 dc in the 6th stitch*
Repeat from * to * across
2 dc in the last stitch
turn (170 stitches)
Row 10
Stacked sc in the first stitch.
Alternate fpdc and bpdc across
2 dc in the last stitch.
Before completing the last dc, drop color C, pick up Color B, and complete the dc by pulling through the last 2 loops.
See the video for how I hide the ends without weaving in.
Turn (170 stitches)
Row 11
Stacked sc in the first stitch
6 dc
2 dc in the 7th stitch
*6 dc
2 dc in the 7th stitch*
Repeat from * to * across
End with 2 dc
Turn (194 stitches)
Row 12
Stacked sc in the first stitch
Alternate fpdc and bpdc.
Continue this pattern across.
End with 2 dc, but before completing the last dc, drop color B, cut, leaving a tail to weave in, pick up color A and complete the dc.
Turn (194 stitches)
Continue this pattern, alternating increase rows of all regular dc with rows of front post, back post dc until the tree skirt is as wide as you like. Mine is 49” across.
Use any stripe or solid pattern you like, just remember to always follow the pattern for increase rows and start a new color with an increase (all regular dc) row.
Notes:
*Every row starts with a stacked single crochet.
*Every regular dc row ends with 2 dc together, no chain.
*The rows will alternate between all regular dc and alternating fpdc bpdc rows.
*The last 2 stitches of every fpdc, bpdc row will be a bpdc followed by a regular dc.
*On the fpdc bpdc rows, the fpdc will always be an even number stitch and the bpdc will always be an odd number stitch.
*Every regular dc row is increased by adding one more stitch than the previous regular dc row before placing 2 stitches together.
For example, row 13 will have 2 dc in every 8th stitch and row 15 will have 2 dc in every 9th stitch.
*Every increase row adds 24 stitches total.
Increasing at this rate helps to keep the tree skirt circular.
*If you forget how many stitches you need between increases, go back to the previous increase row and count how many stitches are between the 2 dc increase and you’ll know to increase that by 1. For example, if the previous increase row has 2 dc in every 5th stitch, then the next increase row will have 2 dc in every 6th stitch and so on.
My color pattern, beginning with the first row is:
10 rows of color A
2 rows of color B
10 rows of color C
2 rows of color B
Keep repeating the pattern until the tree skirt is as wide as you like. Mine is 49” wide, which is a good size for a tall tree.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! If you have any questions, please ask in the comments section. It goes to my email and I’ll get back to you as quickly as I can.
Debi
