Using only 4 squares and chains, you can make this super cute and so easy pillow cover!
Bernat Forever Fleece super bulky 6 weight yarn
(Or any color combination in any yarn, just be aware that lighter weight yarn will take more rounds to make the squares the right size.)
Color A: Chamomile: less than 1 skein
Color B: Coal: less than 1 skein
Color C: White Noise: just a few yards
If you prefer, you can use Color A for the border and chains for Color B squares and Color B for the border and chains for Color A squares. I chose to use white because they will match my Modern Farmhouse Plaid Blanket (another free pattern on my website and YouTube channel @i-crochet)
10mm crochet hook
8mm crochet hook
16 x 16 pillow form (or larger or smaller depending on how large you make your squares. Mine are 10” x 10”.
Ch=chain
Dc=double crochet
Sl st=slip stitch
Flat granny squares: make 2 of each color
Round 1
Make a magic ring, ch 1 and chain 4 more.
Working in the center of the magic ring and under the tail, make 3 dc.
Ch 2
Make 3 dc in the ring, ch 2
Make 3 dc in the ring, ch 2
Now you have 3 sides.
For the 4th side,
Make 2 dc in the ring.
Join to the 3rd chain of your first chain 4 by placing your hook in the chain, pulling the yarn through and pulling through the loop for a slip stitch.
Now place your hook under the corner chain space and pull the yarn through and complete a slip stitch.
Ch 4.
Round 2
2 dc in the corner space.
*1 dc in each of the 3 dc from the previous round.
When you reach the corner space, make 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all in the chain space*
Repeat from * to * until you reach the initial chain.
Your last dc of this round will actually be the first dc of that corner.
Place your hook into the corner space from the previous round and make a dc.
Join at the 3rd chain from the initial chain with a slip stitch.
Slip stitch into the corner space.
Ch 4
Round 3
2 dc in the corner space.
*1 dc in each of the 7 dc from the previous round. (You’ll increase the dc in each round by 4 because you have 2 dc from the corners in the previous round)
When you reach the corner space, make 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all in the chain space*
Repeat from * to * until you reach the initial chain.
Your last dc of this round will actually be the first dc of that corner.
Place your hook into the corner space from the previous round and make a dc.
Join at the 3rd chain from the initial chain with a slip stitch.
Slip stitch into the corner space.
Ch 4
Round 4
2 dc in the corner space.
*1 dc in each of the 11 dc from the previous round. (You’ll increase the dc in each round by 4 because you have 2 dc from the corners in the previous round)
When you reach the corner space, make 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all in the chain space*
Repeat from * to * until you reach the initial chain.
Your last dc of this round will actually be the first dc of that corner.
Place your hook into the corner space from the previous round and make a dc.
Join at the 3rd chain from the initial chain with a slip stitch.
Slip stitch into the corner space.
Ch 4
Round 5
2 dc in the corner space.
*1 dc in each of the 15 dc from the previous round. (You’ll increase the dc in each round by 4 because you have 2 dc from the corners in the previous round)
When you reach the corner space, make 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all in the chain space*
Repeat from * to * until you reach the initial chain.
Your last dc of this round will actually be the first dc of that corner.
Place your hook into the corner space from the previous round and make a dc.
Join at the 3rd chain from the initial chain with a slip stitch.
Slip stitch into the corner space.
Ch 4
Your square should be approximately 10” now. You can continue to make more rounds, which increase by about 2” per round, if you want to make a bigger pillow cover.
Border
Make sure the right side is facing you. The stitches will be flatter than the back.
In the back loop only of the 2nd stitch from any corner, join with a slip knot, ch 1 and single crochet in the same stitch.
When you reach the stitch just before the middle chain of each corner, sc and ch 2, skip the middle chain, go into the back loop only of each stitch.
Continue this pattern around.
Join the first stitch with an invisible join. (See the video)
Chains:
Leave a long enough tail on each end to sew in to the corner.
I chained 33 for each part of “X” in each square. You may need a little more or less, depending on how tight your chain is.
Pull each end tight.
Take one chain and weave it through the corner spaces from each round, starting with under the border corner space.
Pull the chain to fit and straighten so the v part of the chain is showing.
Sew each end tail into the border.
Repeat for the other part of the “X”
To make my squares all the same size and to flatten them just a bit, I placed a towel over each, used a steam iron that I barely placed on the towel to let some steam go through the towel to the square (DO NOT touch an iron to the yarn)
Use your hands to gently flatten each square to the same size.
To sew the squares together, you’ll fold each in half to make triangles.
Each will meet on the sides where you will sew them by placing your needle in the part of the stitch that is closest to the center of each side, coming up from the bottom of each stitch. If that’s confusing, please watch the video tutorial.
If you want your pillow cover to be removable, the square you want to be at the top will have partially open seams at the back (about halfway from the top works well.)
You can sew a button on the opposite square and use the corner of the border in the top square as a buttonhole.
I chose to leave about 1/3 of the seam on each side of one square open to put the pillow form inside. Then I stitched the seams closed and used the extra yarn to tie a bow which allows me to open up the seam as needed to wash or change out the cover.
Now place your pillow form inside and you’re finished!
Let me know how you liked this pattern.
What colors did you choose?
